Step into their shoes

As a militant anti ’no-shows’ campaigner, it is easy to sit at the restaurant coal face and present the blame for chaotic or cancelled reservations on lazy, selfish customers. Excuse me as I hoist my banner. How dare they treat us so badly! Deposits! In fact, pay for everything upfront! Etc etc.

Some events recently have made me see things differently.  
A week or so ago I had to host a party of delegates from overseas for a week, booking London restaurants three times a day and attending many of the occasions.
What fun I thought, me, being the man-about-town old pro of the central London dining scene. 'How hard can that be?' I thought, and set about arranging tables all over town. 

It all began very well, sending the party to their requested flash old-school Mayfair Chinese on their first night. So far so good. On the second night, a table was ready, but the party changed their minds and requested something different. No problem! Gritting my teeth and hastily rearranging, narrowly escaping a gigantic deposit penalty.

A lunch booking for 6 was all going to plan, albeit pushed back an hour. No problem, replied the restaurant. waiting patiently for our 1pm booking, nervously double checking the table, and empty seats, imagine my industry veteran horror when the party arrived not as 6, but 9 of them. Step in, amazing restaurant staff, who just dealt with it.

On the penultimate night, a booking of 7 was planned, then cancelled at 11.30am on the day. I was so mortified about causing the restaurant bother I decided to go to there in person, apologise and beg forgiveness. They were incredibly gracious. (TIP: if possible, always go in person if you want forgiveness and to avoid a massive credit card bill)

Suddenly something felt very strange indeed. For the first time in a while I found myself seeing the restaurant booking process from the customer’s point of view. Going out to eat is NOT like going to a show or a football match. Don't use this comparison. It is an organic, fluid, ever changing organism which changes all the time. 

It’s not easy, things happen, groups build, shrink, people change their minds. 

I've learned two main things: Number one, is that to be really successful at hospitality you need to be exactly this: hospitable - not just after a perfect guest has pre-paid and sat down, but hospitable to the ebb and flow and fragility of guest life, especially in a buzzing city such as ours. 

Number two, is that London restaurants are absolutely brilliant.

ps, I never want to open a booking platform again.

Thank you to all the amazing restaurants and staff involved, Circolo Popolare, Speedboat Bar, Nobu, Yauatcha, 123V, Groucho Club, Roka.